By Inder Raj Ahluwalia
It doesn’t take too long, but a walk through the town is monumental. Simply because it is a walk through 2,000 years of British history!
The story here is all about what happened back in those early times, and there’s quite a history to it. The Romans overcame the resistance of the ancient British kings in AD 43, and made the town the first capital of Roman Britain, much before London’s development and prominence. Following the town’s destruction by Queen Boudica in AD 60, the Romans encircled it with a protective wall, two and a half kilometers of which—the oldest in Britain—still stands, together with Britain’s largest surviving Roman gateway.
Here, in Britain’s oldest recorded town, you walk in the footsteps of the Britons, the Romans, the Saxons, the Normans, 16th Century Dutch weavers, Royalists and Parliamentarians, and the Victorians. Their legacies survive in the town and its four museums, and you can discover them either by taking a walk with a Blue Badge Guide, or just on your own.
But while history and heritage are the supreme backdrop, Colchester goes beyond all this. It is a thriving, modern town offering myriad places to visit and things to see. Its charm radiates from a package of attractions that ranges from lanes of stone, narrow streets, little houses of the past alongside occasional brick structures, and a unique atmosphere and ambience.
Several theatres, galleries, and a rich musical tradition rightfully make Colchester a regional centre for the arts. Enjoy a sultry evening in a club atmosphere listening to Blues or Jazz at Colchester Arts Centre; see large show bands and symphony orchestras at Charter Hall; or just tap your feet in time to exciting folk artists.
‘Colchester Natural History Museum’ read the sign, and it was reason enough for us to enter, partly, I must confess, because of an annoying drizzle. But it was worth it. ‘From the depths of the North Sea through settlements and woodland, to your own backyard’ is the scope of the displays of the small but highly informative museum.
The unending drizzle again a motivator, our very next stop was also (conveniently) a museum. Recounting life in town over the past 300 years, the Hollytrees Museum, besides offering you a chance to discover the building itself, enables you to meet characters from Hollytree’s past and hear stories from the locals.
Next in line was the 15th Century timber-framed Tymperleys Clock Museum that houses a comprehensive collection of local clocks, as featured on the BBC’s Antiques Road Show. Featuring over a century of railway history is the East Anglican Railway Museum at Chappel. And Firstsite is an excellent contemporary visual art gallery with a café and walled garden situated in a beautiful Georgian town house known as Minories.
History and garden buffs would do well to take a detailed walking tour with a Blue Badge Guide. Fresh air fiends will love the surrounding countryside and coast, enjoying several long-distance paths that can be tailored to circular walks. And history buffs will just enjoy the overall atmosphere.
It was all peace and bliss as we walked through landscaped gardens and terraces, around a pond, boating lake and sensory garden of the prettiest jewel in Colchester’s crown—the classical Victorian Castle Park. The peace and bliss continued as we strolled through a royal hunting forest located close to the town centre. Originally gifted to Colchester by Henry VIII, the former royal preserve is now High Woods Country Park with its woodland, lake and visitor centre. In summer, people enjoy ice creams here, but this was anything but summertime, and the hot coffee we had in paper cups wasn’t just handy, but an absolute delight.
At the town’s heart is William the Conqueror’s 11th Century castle, the largest surviving Norman keep ever built. For centuries, the castle kept secret the fact that it was built over the remains of a Roman temple dedicated to the Emperor Claudius, the conqueror of Britain. Into the award-winning Castle Museum we went, descending into the eerie depths of the temple’s original foundations. We tried on a toga and centurion’s helmet and body armour, saw the mysterious 4,000 years old Dagenham Idol, and looked out over the Roman Middleborough Mosaic. How’s that for serious sightseeing?
Incredibly old it may be, but Colchester is in sync with contemporary goings on and is mindful of the present and future. One of Europe’s finest roller-skating rink, Rollerworld, where everyone can have a ‘go’ on Britain’s largest maple-floored rink, is a case in point.
Pedestrian-only modern shopping centres feature big name outlets, while small specialist shops line narrow streets and lanes. They’ve also got their own award-winning independent department store, Williams & Griffen, a town feature.
From street entertainers to quaint street traders, the monthly farmer’s market, among Britain’s oldest open-air markets, throws up myriad surprises. Renowned local outlets come in the form of Cants of Colchester—specialist rose growers with their colourful nurseries; and the world-famous Beth Chatto Gardens at nearby Elmstead Market.
When you’ve done playing tourist in Britain’s oldest recorded town, savour the real thing. Get tempted by a plate of those famous Colchester oysters, a delicacy first enjoyed by the Romans. Or hunt down antiques and bric-a-brac; savour the heady aroma of freshly ground coffee and tangy cheeses in traditional delicatessens, or treat yourself to a tea in a typically English tea room.
Who says a long history doesn’t have its uses. All one need do is arrive and sort of ‘melt in’.
The Facts
• Colchester is an hour’s drive from London and about the same by train.
• The local tourist office is located opposite the castle and offers useful information.
• Guest-houses and hotels offer varied tariffs, with English, Continental and Indian food available.
• Winters are cold and windy—carry woollens and good walking shoes.
